Norwegian Black Derby - 722

The Norwegian is a black split-toe Derby — a dress shoe with a hand-detail most men never notice until they do. Open lacing keeps it easy; the split-toe seam runs up the center of the vamp, a raised hand-sewn line that gives the shoe character a plain derby doesn't have. The upper is top-grade European calfskin, a box calf finished smooth for an even black shine. It's built on the 722 last — long and lean with a slight chisel toe, the sleekest line in the range — which frames the central seam and keeps the whole shoe sharp. Made by our artisans in a workshop in Almansa, Goodyear welted one pair at a time. A full leather sole keeps it dressy.

Put it under a suit and it reads correct with a quiet flourish; put it under dark denim and the split-toe carries it. The detail does the work — you just wear it and let people work out why the shoe looks more interesting than it should.

The plain derby is expected. The Norwegian has a line worth following.