Alex Black Calf Wingtip Derby - 675
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Open laces, a wingtip that sweeps the full length of the shoe, broguing punched along the seams — a black longwing Derby is relaxed construction, correctly dressed. Where the Oxford is strict, the Derby is easier: the lace flaps sit on top of the vamp, so it pulls on without fuss and gives a little more room across the foot. The upper is top-grade European calfskin, a clean box-calf black finished smooth for an even shine. Here the Alex is built on the 675 last — an almond toe with a slightly deeper fit — so the foot settles in and the shoe stays comfortable through long days. Made by our artisans in a workshop in Almansa, Goodyear welted, one pair at a time. A full leather sole keeps it on the dressier side of casual.
This is the black shoe for the man who finds the Oxford a little stiff. Put it under a suit and it behaves; put it under dark denim and it leads. Open laces, wingtip, broguing — relaxed in all the right ways, correct in all the others.
Some shoes need the right occasion. The Alex makes the ordinary one look intentional.
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A wingtip derby takes the easy, open-laced shoe and gives it a pointed toe cap that sweeps back along both sides in a W — the wing — usually finished with broguing along its edges. Country in origin, city in practice. That detail adds visual weight at the front, which balances a heavier trouser and makes the shoe look grounded rather than dainty. Wear it with tweed, corduroy, flannel, or a navy suit on a day that does not need a plain cap toe. Ours is the Alex, Goodyear welted in European calfskin on either the almond-toed 675 or the sharper, chisel-toed 722.
Toe shape: Almond · Fit: Roomy · Sizing: True to size
The shoe reads balanced, clean, and classically European. The almond toe is generous — there is real volume in the toe box, well-formed and slightly domed — but it resolves into an elegant roundness that never becomes aggressive or pointed.
Compared to the 722, the 675 has more body: the foot breathes, the toes settle with natural ease. Compared to a round-toe last, it still has definition — the toe has its own character. The result is a shoe that looks serious without effort, with harmonious proportions that work with a suit, chinos, or even dark denim.
The English last in its most balanced form: presence without drama, elegance without posturing.
A leather sole is the dressiest way to finish a shoe, and the reason a good pair reads as a good pair from across the room. It is thin where a rubber sole is thick, so the shoe keeps the line the last gave it instead of adding bulk under the foot.
Leather breathes, takes the shape of the way you walk within a few wears, and can be replaced when it finally goes — this is a sole built to be renewed, not discarded.
It is quieter on a hard floor than anything else we make, and it is the sole to choose when the occasion is formal and the day is dry.
